Niagara. Thunder of Waters
Mar. 30th, 2012 10:45 am![[personal profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/identity/user.png){kind=small}
melodysparksAs some of you will know I was fortunate to holiday in Canada on numerous occasions, staying with friends who live and work in Toronto and with two fantastic people as tour guides I couldn't go wrong.
For my first visit back in 2003, one of the highlights of my holiday was my three-day visit to Niagara Falls more precisely the Niagara Region. Both my friends knew the region well considering both had relatives in the area and had visited the Falls many, many times before, so who better to show me the splendours of the resort. Niagara Falls has a multitude of attractions, sights and events, far too many to record here but I shall endeavour to recount some of those places I visited and those attractions I experienced with a little history and fact thrown in for good measure.
LOCATION
The Falls themselves are only the centre of a fascinating region in southern Ontario that lies between Great Lakes Erie upstream and to the south and Ontario downstream and to the north with the city alone receiving more than 20 million visitors each year. The 35 mile long Niagara River forms a natural border between the United States and Canada with the resorts spanning the border. There are actually two Niagara Falls cities each separated by the wide gorge but reachable via numerous bridges along the river. At Niagara it is the Rainbow Bridge.
NIAGARA AND ME
My first glimpse of Niagara had been during the journey from Toronto via the Queen Elizabeth Expressway was the rising mist which could be seen miles from the fall themselves and closer we got the sense of anticipation grew sharper but travelling through the city towards out hotel there seemed at first nothing special about the place we could have been in any resort anywhere in the world with its vast array of motels and hotels, boarding houses, gift shops and restaurants; there are 12,000 places of accommodation between both American and Canadian cities. Pulling into the Marriott Courtyard Hotel with its European architecture my heart began to race as I gazed across the rear car park and saw the Skylon Tower with the mist rising behind it situated on the slight incline behind the hotel. I was in Niagara Falls.
FORMATION OF THE GORGE AND FALLS
Niagara is situated on the Niagara escarpment, which extends 725 km across Ontario from Niagara Falls to Manitoulin Island. 430 Million years ago a shallow tropical sea covered the area but when it drained the corals and sediments had been compressed turning into dolomite and left behind a shelf of rugged terrain and cliffs. Through this shelf ran the Niagara River and as it reached the edge of the escarpment it tumbled over to erode the bedrock at a rate of 3 feet per year carving a deep, tremendous gorge with an average width of 1,200 feet. As the Falls eroded, its path came across a buried gorge filled in with glacial silt and debris perpendicular to the receding Falls. The path of the Falls changed it’s the course through this least resistant surface and began following the ancient buried gorge. It is at this point the whirlpool basin was formed.12, 000 years ago the falls were 11 km further down stream however about 500 years ago the river encountered an obstacle that caused it to 'split into two forming the falls as we see them today.
90% of the of its maximum flow tumbled over the Horseshoe Falls and 10% over the American Falls at a speed of 20 mph 37 million gallons of water per minute tumbles into the plunge pool. Now that’s a lot of water and places Niagara in the record books for the largest volume of water to cascade over a waterfall but in sheer size it may be second only to Victoria Falls in Africa. Since the 1950 when water management on both sides of the river came into effect the flow was drawn off into the hydroelectric generating stations reducing the amount of water tumbling over the cascades helping to reduce the erosion to 1 foot per decade. The current flow of the water is reduced during the night to 50% of the original amount during summer months and 25% in winter months when the Sir Adam Beck and Robert Moses Hydro Generating Stations begin to draw water away from the falls.
HORSESHOE, AMERICAN & BRIDAL VEIL FALLS
I didn’t want my first sight of the falls proper to be from a distance almost like creeping up upon them I wanted to be able to open my eyes as if materialized and see them in their magnificence. My friends helped me out here by taking me along the route by the Skylon Tower, down the hill and into the heart of the gardens that run along the promenade. At the base I closed my eyes and my friends led me towards the cliff barrier wall.
The first thing I noticed was the sound and the spray. The Native Indians called it “Ongiara” or so I an told meaning the strait although the name was given a more romanticized translation of “Thunder of Waters”, yet by the time the European settlers reached the captivating and majestic waterfalls the name had evolved. I would definitely agree that Thunder of Waters is a more accurate description of these incredible falls and I do mean incredible because the crescendo of sound you hear standing anywhere near either of these cascades of fresh water are like a continuous roll of thunder and the mist thrown up by the boiling maelstrom from the basin is like a heavy rain, raw and powerful, sheer magnificence.
The American Falls are actually two waterfall cascades separated by the small Luna Island with a bridge and decked walkways to view the falls. The American Falls are slightly higher than the Canadian at 180 feet but they are only half their length at 1075 feet wide and Bridal Veil falls are but only 5% of the size of the American falls. Although this waterfall may be higher it does not have the giant plunge pool into which the torrential cascades spill but a scree like incline at the base of the cataract where from constant erosion over the years large chunks of dolomite have tumbled and remained to erode away by the spilling waters that cream into foam around them. Geologists believe that eventually the American falls will erode into a series of stepped rapids rather than a tumbling waterfall.
Opening my eyes I stood arrested at the sight of the American falls they were stunning, almost magical as the sun cast its rays onto the outburst of water and it shone a bright, bridal white of a tumble of lacy satin. Surprisingly watching them was both restful and tremendous I couldn’t take my eyes from the view, gawking across 1200 feet of swift coursing river that flowed a clean blue shade. 'Oh my'. I breathed, 'it's...it’s amazing'. I was lost for words as I drank in the beauty and enthralled by the sight but that was only half the wonder in this little city on the Canadian/American border. The best was yet to come.
Walking along the barrier wall I turned my sights towards the river and watched the little Maid of the Mist boat making its way towards the plunge pool of the falls ahead. I felt giddy beginning to move faster towards the larger waterfall. It roared in my ears and the spray blew on to my face as I laughed merrily. There before me was an aqua and white tumbling mass of water rippling, turning, churning and tumbling, rolling and bubbling in ropes and wreaths from wave to wave as it curled over like a drapery from its edge. It drew me, called to me, I couldn't tear my gaze away it was as if I was hypnotized I felt a need to get as close as I could and just stare at these waters. Finally I made my way to the promontory that runs at the very edge of the falls where you can look down and watch the gush fall over the rim. I could see the darker rock beneath the aqua spill and was surprised to realise that the depth of the water as it exploded over the edge was but a matter of inches.
From the spray that was thrown up into the glaring sunlight a rainbow had formed, 'Oh my God, oh my God,' I cried 'Look a rainbow.' Rainbows can be seen at the Falls in the early morning as the sun rises and in the late afternoon as the sun begins to set. The sun at these times reflects the water from the rising mist forming a rainbow that is quite easy to capture on film. The image was perfect, beautiful falls, bright sunshine and a rainbow. One thing I noticed about the rainbow though was it was only half an arc that was extremely strange but surprisingly enchanting. I know it sounds a little silly but I wished my mum was with at that moment to share in my joy but she was at home 3500 miles away so the next best thing was to call her so she too could hear the thundering roar of these falls. I must admit I looked like a right twit shouting on the telephone over the roaring waters then thrusting my arm out over the ledge with my phone pointing towards the mighty sound. I was so full of joy and extremely happy and mum has since commented how happy I sounded.
Separated from the American Falls by Goat Island which itself lies in New York State the cataract of Canadian Falls is almost the shape of a horseshoe hence it's name with a crest line spanning the width of 2200 feet and 170 feet high, depth of the plunge pool is actually higher than the falls itself with a depth of 184 feet. It was first described as a horseshoe in 1721 and the name remained ever since. Leading down to the rim of the cataract is a series of upper rapids and dotted islands and further back are what looked like walls which I later discovered to be the water channels that draw the river flow away from the falls and into the hydroelectricity stations. The water is blue with ripples of white foam as it streams towards the edge. Looking carefully I could just make out the Old Dumping Scow, a blackened and rust covered lump stranded on a rocky ledge. In 1918 the scow broke away from its towing boat and drifted towards the edge of the falls. The two men on board opened the dumping doors in the bottom and grounded it on the ledge. The brave men remained on board for a further 29 hours before they were rescued by using a breeches buoy from a line shot from the Toronto Power Station. The scow has remained there to this day, slowly rusting and deteriorating and waiting for the day when its rusty remains breaks away from its ledge to tumble over the majestic falls.
THE MAID OF THE MIST
The Maid of The Mist affords a different perspective of the Falls by travelling up the Niagara River passing within feet of the base of the American and Bridal Veil Falls to the basin of the Horseshoe where it hovers against the currents revving its engines as it hangs almost suspended within the seething masses of water and spray where should it be too far forward it could be pulled into the maelstrom and under the water.
Boats have been navigating their way across the river and into the basin of Niagara since around 1834 where little rowing boats ferried passengers across to the opposite side of the river. Later steam paddleboats travelled up into the basin very much like today’s adventure taking passengers on an exhilarating, but tense and heart-thumping journey into the mists. The boats have changed a great deal since those days in the mid 1800’s now you board a double-decked steel diesel engine boat on this 30-minute journey.
To reach the Maid, my friends and I descended via a series of ramps and a lift to the base of the cliffs where we were given a transparent blue polythene poncho to protect us from the shower of mist. (Yep thats me in the photo at the bottom in the blue poncho making me look like a whale) On this trip you can get extremely wet and the cost of the poncho is included in the admission.
Once aboard we made our way to the port side, I noticed around us were a multitude of nationalities from the different accents I could hear, Chinese/Mandarin, French, Italian, Indian Dutch and a couple of women from New Zealand plus many more, all like myself eager to experience this ride. Before long the lines were cast off, the engines rumbled into life as we slowly moved away from the dock churning the clean and clear blue waters into foaming aqua bubbles and suds. In a hale of static we were welcomed aboard the Maid and the captain proceeded with the safety instructions. Moving out into the river proper I could feel the vibrations of the boat under my feet and an excitement flowed through me I was extremely thrilled and eager to drink in every detail of the journey even to this day I still remember the feeling of excitement I felt.
From the summit of the cliffs the river doesn’t look quite as wide nor the falls quite as high but this is deceptive from the water level the cliffs were more imposing but just as majestic as the waters plummet over the American Falls onto the shale and rocks below. It was spectacular, the water fuming and almost pulsing as it gushed over the ledge we were only feet away from the base and could feel the spray on our faces. Only from this distance could we seen the remarkable size of the broken craggy rocks and stone that had tumbled away from the cliff some were twice or maybe three time the size of a house.
We were moving past at a steady pace now approaching Bridal Veil Falls with their frothy, bubbling waters undulating like a mound of frilly, lacy, satin. I can remember exclaiming with a shout, as the noise was exceptionally loud ‘Look there’ to one of my friends not having realised before that there was a wooden walkway leading down the cliffs across the Bridal Falls and back up the cliff at the side of the American falls. On the wooden walkway were people in bright, yellow ponchos and seeing these people next to the cascade emphasised the height of the falls. The engines then rumbled louder and the boat moved faster, cutting a way through the water towards the Horseshoe.
The boat headed into the mist and I saw the unbelievably disquieting, thundering wall of water approach, surging in torrents, writhing, churning, into the boiling masses in the basin. The waters looked like grey/white rain clouds as it churned upwards casting away a spray that could drench you in seconds. Spray was spurting now an the wind formed by the forceful mass kept trying to blow my poncho upwards making it more difficult to take photographs without soaking the camera. Finally the boat seemed to slow to a halt at the centre of the arc but the rumbling beneath my feet told me otherwise I could feel the revving of the engines as it strained against the surge.
It is difficult to describe what I was feeling at that moment, excitement definitely and elation but underlying that an uneasiness as I gazed into the maelstrom. My heart beat frantically as adrenalin pumped through my body, to me this was the most dangerous thing I had ever done and one of the most thrilling. Before me was a natural powerful force both exhilarating and chilling at the same time with a deafening thundering that is so loud that a shout cannot be heard over the sound of it. I was in a fragile little boat in the edge of a violent flow of spray and water that at any moment could pull the boat under if the captain made a mistake. Shivers ran over me I could feel goose bumps appear on my arms and that was not from the mist. WOW! For one of the few times in my life I was utterly speechless. Finally and sadly the boat made its turn and began to move away from the falls leaving behind in its wake a magnificent view of the falls.
To really understand the power of these waterfalls at Niagara a journey on the Maid of the Mist is a must, you can only truly experience its natural force from the deck of that little boat. I loved it and would gladly return again to experience this amazing ride
NIAGARA CITY
Each evening the falls are illuminated by 21 Xenon spot lamps bathe the misty, hazy and eerie and enchanting waters in a rainbow of colour, each Xenon spotlight illuminates the falls with a brilliance of 250,000,000 candles. Although darkness obscures a lot of the Canadian Falls they still have a magical quality to them and a hypnotic effect. Where as the Canadian Falls are awesome and astounding during the day time the American Falls at night are spectacular as the full force of the lights centre their illumination on the wisps and enchanting haze of the mist and rocks.
On my first evening we had made our way along the promenade gazing at the falls it was only when we approached the visitors centre near the promontory that we realised the wind was blowing in wrong directing the drenching monsoon like spray towards the road and gardens. Within seconds we were saturated to the skin. Laughing and giggling we were acting like children dancing in a fountain and getting wetter by the minute. I couldn't see my glasses were covered with water and my soaking hair was falling into my eyes but I loved it. Once we were out of the spray the warm evening air soon dried out our clothing and by the time we had made our way back to Clifton Hill we were completely dry.
Clifton Hill is filled with souvenir shops, bars, grills, restaurants, attractions like wax works and horror museums, cigar shops, ice cream stops all open in the evening with bright lights everywhere almost like walking through illuminated Blackpool but everything closes at 11pm with the exception of the Casino Niagara and a few bars.
Niagara is a year round resort but is extremely busy in the summer months but after 1 September the kids are back at school and the city becomes a drowsy holiday resort.
THE CASINO
Entering through the state of the art security I came out into a large foyer where I was told as with all casinos no cameras or cell phones were allowed. The almost empty yet elegantly decorated foyer echoed around me through the doors ahead of me though was a crescendo of noise and flashing lights. This was the first time I had ever been in a casino. After a sumptuous meal at Casey’s, which is, a bar and grill restaurant much like TGI Fridays my friends and I decided to visit the famous Niagara Falls Casino.
Casino Niagara has 123 gaming tables and over 3000 slot machines with a wide selection to choose from where I could drop a token in to the slot, or insert a dollar bill into the currency acceptor, then just push the spin button or pull the arm and everyone of them made a noise. The sound itself rivalled the thunder of the Falls
Blackjack - 78 tables, Roulette - 17 tables, Mini Full Size Baccarat (12 players) - 6 tables, Baccarat (9 players) - 2 tables, Mini Baccarat (7 players) - 2 tables, Caribbean Stud Poker - 6 tables, Big Six - 2 tables Pai Gow Poker (Chinese Poker) - 4 tables.
Slot tokens come in denominations of 5 cents, 25 cents, 50 cents, $1, $5, $20 and $100 most machines accept between one and three coins, and the size of the jackpot generally increases when more coins are played, pressing the "Bet Max" button places the maximum bet and starts the wheels spinning for maximum prize payouts
Having decided on our limit of £20.00 about $45.00 cdn so as not to spend all our holiday money we wandered around the floor watching people playing the slots or cards with the big burly dark suited played tossing large denomination chips in like they were pennies. It was amazing how some of these people seemed unconcerned with the money they were losing but then they do call that expression poker face.
Quite soon the noise and the smoke as smoking is allowed in a casino was giving me a headache and after a busy day we were all feeling tired and decided to take a slow wander back to our hotel.
SKYLON TOWER
Niagara's second most famous landmark is the Skylon Tower Soaring 775 feet above the Niagara Gorge overlooking both the Canadian and American Falls with the circular designed dome provides of three separate of unobstructed viewing platforms. Although not on par with the CN Tower although built of a similar design the tower is still fascinating. Ascending in one of the three outside mounted Yellow Bug elevators The Skylon is a wonderful place to get a view of the entire Falls with the special grey glass in the windows to diffuse sunlight and reduce glare. These windows allow for quality photographs to be taken from the inside and at night the views are astounding.
The indoor/outdoor Observatory, the highest vantage point in Niagara, and is located on the third floor of the Dome. On a clear day you can see close to 8,000 square miles of Canada and the United States, including the skylines of Toronto and Buffalo. Running alone the base of the windows of the observatory is a series of information plaques telling some of the fascinating history of the Falls and the Tower itself. A souvenir shop is located on the indoor section of the observatory.
Not only is the Skylon tower a tourist’s attraction it also is the home to a number of dining rooms and suites with award winning continental cuisine to suit many palettes and is presented in an elegant setting and a warm and inviting decor. The Skylon's world famous Revolving Dining Room is located on the first floor of the Dome. The dome revolves one every hour giving diners a magical view of the falls as they eat with a menu rivalled only by the view. The rich wood panelled Summit Suite Dining Room with elegant accents of brass and granite has a famous buffet with dishes like roast beef, fresh seafood or French pastries and can also be booked for special event private functions, receptions, banquets and business meetings from mid-October to mid-May. Each of the Dining rooms has their own kitchens located within the Dome to ensure efficient service to all the diners
The Lower Level & Skyquest contains an interactive indoor entertainment centre for family fun. A Quick Service Food Court, the Skylon 4D Theatre The 3D film combines special effects and motion for awesome realism, thrills and excitement. Also on this level, Administration offices, engineering departments, and rest rooms facilities
JOURNEY BENEATH THE FALLS
Another way to view the thundering waters of the Canadian Falls from a completely different angle is visiting The Journey Behind The Falls allowing a close-up view of the Falls from behind and below.
Descending on an elevator 150 feet I reached a 150-foot long tunnel entrance where I was given a transparent yellow polythene poncho. Once again this is an attraction where you can become extremely wet very fast. Before me was 650 feet of man made tunnels that lead to an observation plaza at the brink of the falls and two portals located directly behind the rock wall along which were information boards about the falls themselves. Following the tunnel to the end portal I stood by the barrier and looked out of the tunnel end into an agitated mass of water and spray. The noise was mind numbing in this little space echoing so loud I had to put my fingers in my ears. At this point I was about 150 feet within the rock of the falls running parallel with the cliff edge and looking behind the falling water. Moving to the barrier I tried to see through the falling waters but I due to the spray bouncing back from the basin. Moving back along the tunnel that was heavy with humidity and moisture I took a look at the second portal and found that was the same. This wasn’t looking so good I felt let down but I decided to try the observation plaza just above the river level at the brink of the falls. This was much better.
Divided into two segments, a covered upper deck and an open lower deck present a close-up view of the falls. Even under the covered decking I could feel the spray and water blowing against me but the view was spectacular. Over to my left the river, gorge and American falls and to my immediate right only feet away were the tumbling masses of the Canadian Falls. Deciding to take the plunge as it were I trotted down the steps to the open lower deck and boy was that a good choice. Thrilling and awesome can only describe watching the falls flowing over the rim only a matter of feet away and the sound was booming. I was closer to the water than I ever was in the Maid of the Mist and getting wetter and wetter but from that angle the sight was awe-inspiring. Although there isn’t really a lot here I did take some spectacular photographs and got a close-up view of the edge of the cataract.
THE SPANISH AEROCAR AND WHIRLPOOL
We had made our way from Niagara Falls heading North towards Niagara on the Lake and their wonderful vineyards and wineries when we pulled over to visit the Spanish Aero Car and the fascinating Whirlpool.
The Whirlpool was created approximately 6000 years when the erosion of the Niagara came upon a buried gorge that had been filled in with glacial silt and debris. It is a large circular pool of water located about 3-4 miles downstream of the Falls. Here the river makes a physical ninety-degree turn in its course. What happens here is the water flow pushes straight past the actual turn and enters the whirlpool during the daytime following the contour of the circular edge of the whirlpool and loops anti clockwise back to near where it entered the whirlpool before exiting north and flowing on to Lake Ontario. At night however when the Sir Adam Beck and Robert Moses Hydro Generating Stations begin to draw their water an unusual phenomenon occurs the currents in the Whirlpool reverse direction to clockwise. As a result of the reduced volume of water flow the water now enters the Whirlpool following the contour of the circular edge of Whirlpool rotating clockwise before exiting
Amongst a high bank of trees the Visitors Centre houses the viewing platform that runs along a small section of the cliff as well as the entrance to the Aero Car ride. From here I had a wonderful view of the river riding down swiftly into the gorge and into the vortex. The whirlpool is fascinating and so unbelievable that it has to be seen to be believed I could see the water turning with the vortex with their a deep aqua blue colour and swift running rapids and angry currents. Around the gorge, the cliffs are blanketed with trees adding to the whole view. But best way to see Niagara's fascinating Whirlpool is from high overhead aboard the world famous Niagara Whirlpool Aero Car.
The round trip is about 3,600 feet takes roughly 10 - 15 minutes riding suspended from six sturdy cables in a the delicate looking swinging basket-like car above of a 125 feet deep whirlpool, spanning the gorge approximately 1800 feet travelling between two different points of the Canadian shore of the Niagara River. From basket the breathtaking but dizzying views of the rapids with their foaming waters upstream, the spectacular Gorge, the hydroelectric plants down the river. Are in one word: Magnificent! There is a wind that is formed along the gorge and you can feel it whipping at your face and clothing. Birds soar effortlessly on thermal updrafts rising from the gorge all around while far below the torrent of water abruptly changes direction, creating a most mesmerizing natural phenomenon, almost frightening.
As well as information about the Aero Car and the surrounding area, the visitor centre houses numerous gift shops with their collection of souvenirs, sweets, drinks, snacks, sandwiches and the delicious Niagara fudge in an assortment of flavours that melts in your mouth. I love fudge but nothing compares to the fudge I tasted here.
This short ride is thrilling but not for those who have vertigo or a fear of heights in which case it can be extremely scary even though it travels at a steady pace and the car doe not rock a great deal. On the whole it’s an excellent experience. I just might come again.
AFTERWORD
Niagara has become a destination icon and holds something for each visitor, the charm of the area with its sports, amusements, attractions, museums and breathtaking scenery make for a wonderful holiday. I was fascinated with the geological history of the area and it’s the breathtaking views and I found wonder at the sights I beheld. I would definitely return again but in the mean time I will have to stick to watching the falls from the web cam.
Horseshoe Falls
Lip of the falls
American Falls
American Falls
Spanish Aerocar
Maid of the Mist
Typical Bloody Tourist
For my first visit back in 2003, one of the highlights of my holiday was my three-day visit to Niagara Falls more precisely the Niagara Region. Both my friends knew the region well considering both had relatives in the area and had visited the Falls many, many times before, so who better to show me the splendours of the resort. Niagara Falls has a multitude of attractions, sights and events, far too many to record here but I shall endeavour to recount some of those places I visited and those attractions I experienced with a little history and fact thrown in for good measure.
LOCATION
The Falls themselves are only the centre of a fascinating region in southern Ontario that lies between Great Lakes Erie upstream and to the south and Ontario downstream and to the north with the city alone receiving more than 20 million visitors each year. The 35 mile long Niagara River forms a natural border between the United States and Canada with the resorts spanning the border. There are actually two Niagara Falls cities each separated by the wide gorge but reachable via numerous bridges along the river. At Niagara it is the Rainbow Bridge.
NIAGARA AND ME
My first glimpse of Niagara had been during the journey from Toronto via the Queen Elizabeth Expressway was the rising mist which could be seen miles from the fall themselves and closer we got the sense of anticipation grew sharper but travelling through the city towards out hotel there seemed at first nothing special about the place we could have been in any resort anywhere in the world with its vast array of motels and hotels, boarding houses, gift shops and restaurants; there are 12,000 places of accommodation between both American and Canadian cities. Pulling into the Marriott Courtyard Hotel with its European architecture my heart began to race as I gazed across the rear car park and saw the Skylon Tower with the mist rising behind it situated on the slight incline behind the hotel. I was in Niagara Falls.
FORMATION OF THE GORGE AND FALLS
Niagara is situated on the Niagara escarpment, which extends 725 km across Ontario from Niagara Falls to Manitoulin Island. 430 Million years ago a shallow tropical sea covered the area but when it drained the corals and sediments had been compressed turning into dolomite and left behind a shelf of rugged terrain and cliffs. Through this shelf ran the Niagara River and as it reached the edge of the escarpment it tumbled over to erode the bedrock at a rate of 3 feet per year carving a deep, tremendous gorge with an average width of 1,200 feet. As the Falls eroded, its path came across a buried gorge filled in with glacial silt and debris perpendicular to the receding Falls. The path of the Falls changed it’s the course through this least resistant surface and began following the ancient buried gorge. It is at this point the whirlpool basin was formed.12, 000 years ago the falls were 11 km further down stream however about 500 years ago the river encountered an obstacle that caused it to 'split into two forming the falls as we see them today.
90% of the of its maximum flow tumbled over the Horseshoe Falls and 10% over the American Falls at a speed of 20 mph 37 million gallons of water per minute tumbles into the plunge pool. Now that’s a lot of water and places Niagara in the record books for the largest volume of water to cascade over a waterfall but in sheer size it may be second only to Victoria Falls in Africa. Since the 1950 when water management on both sides of the river came into effect the flow was drawn off into the hydroelectric generating stations reducing the amount of water tumbling over the cascades helping to reduce the erosion to 1 foot per decade. The current flow of the water is reduced during the night to 50% of the original amount during summer months and 25% in winter months when the Sir Adam Beck and Robert Moses Hydro Generating Stations begin to draw water away from the falls.
HORSESHOE, AMERICAN & BRIDAL VEIL FALLS
I didn’t want my first sight of the falls proper to be from a distance almost like creeping up upon them I wanted to be able to open my eyes as if materialized and see them in their magnificence. My friends helped me out here by taking me along the route by the Skylon Tower, down the hill and into the heart of the gardens that run along the promenade. At the base I closed my eyes and my friends led me towards the cliff barrier wall.
The first thing I noticed was the sound and the spray. The Native Indians called it “Ongiara” or so I an told meaning the strait although the name was given a more romanticized translation of “Thunder of Waters”, yet by the time the European settlers reached the captivating and majestic waterfalls the name had evolved. I would definitely agree that Thunder of Waters is a more accurate description of these incredible falls and I do mean incredible because the crescendo of sound you hear standing anywhere near either of these cascades of fresh water are like a continuous roll of thunder and the mist thrown up by the boiling maelstrom from the basin is like a heavy rain, raw and powerful, sheer magnificence.
The American Falls are actually two waterfall cascades separated by the small Luna Island with a bridge and decked walkways to view the falls. The American Falls are slightly higher than the Canadian at 180 feet but they are only half their length at 1075 feet wide and Bridal Veil falls are but only 5% of the size of the American falls. Although this waterfall may be higher it does not have the giant plunge pool into which the torrential cascades spill but a scree like incline at the base of the cataract where from constant erosion over the years large chunks of dolomite have tumbled and remained to erode away by the spilling waters that cream into foam around them. Geologists believe that eventually the American falls will erode into a series of stepped rapids rather than a tumbling waterfall.
Opening my eyes I stood arrested at the sight of the American falls they were stunning, almost magical as the sun cast its rays onto the outburst of water and it shone a bright, bridal white of a tumble of lacy satin. Surprisingly watching them was both restful and tremendous I couldn’t take my eyes from the view, gawking across 1200 feet of swift coursing river that flowed a clean blue shade. 'Oh my'. I breathed, 'it's...it’s amazing'. I was lost for words as I drank in the beauty and enthralled by the sight but that was only half the wonder in this little city on the Canadian/American border. The best was yet to come.
Walking along the barrier wall I turned my sights towards the river and watched the little Maid of the Mist boat making its way towards the plunge pool of the falls ahead. I felt giddy beginning to move faster towards the larger waterfall. It roared in my ears and the spray blew on to my face as I laughed merrily. There before me was an aqua and white tumbling mass of water rippling, turning, churning and tumbling, rolling and bubbling in ropes and wreaths from wave to wave as it curled over like a drapery from its edge. It drew me, called to me, I couldn't tear my gaze away it was as if I was hypnotized I felt a need to get as close as I could and just stare at these waters. Finally I made my way to the promontory that runs at the very edge of the falls where you can look down and watch the gush fall over the rim. I could see the darker rock beneath the aqua spill and was surprised to realise that the depth of the water as it exploded over the edge was but a matter of inches.
From the spray that was thrown up into the glaring sunlight a rainbow had formed, 'Oh my God, oh my God,' I cried 'Look a rainbow.' Rainbows can be seen at the Falls in the early morning as the sun rises and in the late afternoon as the sun begins to set. The sun at these times reflects the water from the rising mist forming a rainbow that is quite easy to capture on film. The image was perfect, beautiful falls, bright sunshine and a rainbow. One thing I noticed about the rainbow though was it was only half an arc that was extremely strange but surprisingly enchanting. I know it sounds a little silly but I wished my mum was with at that moment to share in my joy but she was at home 3500 miles away so the next best thing was to call her so she too could hear the thundering roar of these falls. I must admit I looked like a right twit shouting on the telephone over the roaring waters then thrusting my arm out over the ledge with my phone pointing towards the mighty sound. I was so full of joy and extremely happy and mum has since commented how happy I sounded.
Separated from the American Falls by Goat Island which itself lies in New York State the cataract of Canadian Falls is almost the shape of a horseshoe hence it's name with a crest line spanning the width of 2200 feet and 170 feet high, depth of the plunge pool is actually higher than the falls itself with a depth of 184 feet. It was first described as a horseshoe in 1721 and the name remained ever since. Leading down to the rim of the cataract is a series of upper rapids and dotted islands and further back are what looked like walls which I later discovered to be the water channels that draw the river flow away from the falls and into the hydroelectricity stations. The water is blue with ripples of white foam as it streams towards the edge. Looking carefully I could just make out the Old Dumping Scow, a blackened and rust covered lump stranded on a rocky ledge. In 1918 the scow broke away from its towing boat and drifted towards the edge of the falls. The two men on board opened the dumping doors in the bottom and grounded it on the ledge. The brave men remained on board for a further 29 hours before they were rescued by using a breeches buoy from a line shot from the Toronto Power Station. The scow has remained there to this day, slowly rusting and deteriorating and waiting for the day when its rusty remains breaks away from its ledge to tumble over the majestic falls.
THE MAID OF THE MIST
The Maid of The Mist affords a different perspective of the Falls by travelling up the Niagara River passing within feet of the base of the American and Bridal Veil Falls to the basin of the Horseshoe where it hovers against the currents revving its engines as it hangs almost suspended within the seething masses of water and spray where should it be too far forward it could be pulled into the maelstrom and under the water.
Boats have been navigating their way across the river and into the basin of Niagara since around 1834 where little rowing boats ferried passengers across to the opposite side of the river. Later steam paddleboats travelled up into the basin very much like today’s adventure taking passengers on an exhilarating, but tense and heart-thumping journey into the mists. The boats have changed a great deal since those days in the mid 1800’s now you board a double-decked steel diesel engine boat on this 30-minute journey.
To reach the Maid, my friends and I descended via a series of ramps and a lift to the base of the cliffs where we were given a transparent blue polythene poncho to protect us from the shower of mist. (Yep thats me in the photo at the bottom in the blue poncho making me look like a whale) On this trip you can get extremely wet and the cost of the poncho is included in the admission.
Once aboard we made our way to the port side, I noticed around us were a multitude of nationalities from the different accents I could hear, Chinese/Mandarin, French, Italian, Indian Dutch and a couple of women from New Zealand plus many more, all like myself eager to experience this ride. Before long the lines were cast off, the engines rumbled into life as we slowly moved away from the dock churning the clean and clear blue waters into foaming aqua bubbles and suds. In a hale of static we were welcomed aboard the Maid and the captain proceeded with the safety instructions. Moving out into the river proper I could feel the vibrations of the boat under my feet and an excitement flowed through me I was extremely thrilled and eager to drink in every detail of the journey even to this day I still remember the feeling of excitement I felt.
From the summit of the cliffs the river doesn’t look quite as wide nor the falls quite as high but this is deceptive from the water level the cliffs were more imposing but just as majestic as the waters plummet over the American Falls onto the shale and rocks below. It was spectacular, the water fuming and almost pulsing as it gushed over the ledge we were only feet away from the base and could feel the spray on our faces. Only from this distance could we seen the remarkable size of the broken craggy rocks and stone that had tumbled away from the cliff some were twice or maybe three time the size of a house.
We were moving past at a steady pace now approaching Bridal Veil Falls with their frothy, bubbling waters undulating like a mound of frilly, lacy, satin. I can remember exclaiming with a shout, as the noise was exceptionally loud ‘Look there’ to one of my friends not having realised before that there was a wooden walkway leading down the cliffs across the Bridal Falls and back up the cliff at the side of the American falls. On the wooden walkway were people in bright, yellow ponchos and seeing these people next to the cascade emphasised the height of the falls. The engines then rumbled louder and the boat moved faster, cutting a way through the water towards the Horseshoe.
The boat headed into the mist and I saw the unbelievably disquieting, thundering wall of water approach, surging in torrents, writhing, churning, into the boiling masses in the basin. The waters looked like grey/white rain clouds as it churned upwards casting away a spray that could drench you in seconds. Spray was spurting now an the wind formed by the forceful mass kept trying to blow my poncho upwards making it more difficult to take photographs without soaking the camera. Finally the boat seemed to slow to a halt at the centre of the arc but the rumbling beneath my feet told me otherwise I could feel the revving of the engines as it strained against the surge.
It is difficult to describe what I was feeling at that moment, excitement definitely and elation but underlying that an uneasiness as I gazed into the maelstrom. My heart beat frantically as adrenalin pumped through my body, to me this was the most dangerous thing I had ever done and one of the most thrilling. Before me was a natural powerful force both exhilarating and chilling at the same time with a deafening thundering that is so loud that a shout cannot be heard over the sound of it. I was in a fragile little boat in the edge of a violent flow of spray and water that at any moment could pull the boat under if the captain made a mistake. Shivers ran over me I could feel goose bumps appear on my arms and that was not from the mist. WOW! For one of the few times in my life I was utterly speechless. Finally and sadly the boat made its turn and began to move away from the falls leaving behind in its wake a magnificent view of the falls.
To really understand the power of these waterfalls at Niagara a journey on the Maid of the Mist is a must, you can only truly experience its natural force from the deck of that little boat. I loved it and would gladly return again to experience this amazing ride
NIAGARA CITY
Each evening the falls are illuminated by 21 Xenon spot lamps bathe the misty, hazy and eerie and enchanting waters in a rainbow of colour, each Xenon spotlight illuminates the falls with a brilliance of 250,000,000 candles. Although darkness obscures a lot of the Canadian Falls they still have a magical quality to them and a hypnotic effect. Where as the Canadian Falls are awesome and astounding during the day time the American Falls at night are spectacular as the full force of the lights centre their illumination on the wisps and enchanting haze of the mist and rocks.
On my first evening we had made our way along the promenade gazing at the falls it was only when we approached the visitors centre near the promontory that we realised the wind was blowing in wrong directing the drenching monsoon like spray towards the road and gardens. Within seconds we were saturated to the skin. Laughing and giggling we were acting like children dancing in a fountain and getting wetter by the minute. I couldn't see my glasses were covered with water and my soaking hair was falling into my eyes but I loved it. Once we were out of the spray the warm evening air soon dried out our clothing and by the time we had made our way back to Clifton Hill we were completely dry.
Clifton Hill is filled with souvenir shops, bars, grills, restaurants, attractions like wax works and horror museums, cigar shops, ice cream stops all open in the evening with bright lights everywhere almost like walking through illuminated Blackpool but everything closes at 11pm with the exception of the Casino Niagara and a few bars.
Niagara is a year round resort but is extremely busy in the summer months but after 1 September the kids are back at school and the city becomes a drowsy holiday resort.
THE CASINO
Entering through the state of the art security I came out into a large foyer where I was told as with all casinos no cameras or cell phones were allowed. The almost empty yet elegantly decorated foyer echoed around me through the doors ahead of me though was a crescendo of noise and flashing lights. This was the first time I had ever been in a casino. After a sumptuous meal at Casey’s, which is, a bar and grill restaurant much like TGI Fridays my friends and I decided to visit the famous Niagara Falls Casino.
Casino Niagara has 123 gaming tables and over 3000 slot machines with a wide selection to choose from where I could drop a token in to the slot, or insert a dollar bill into the currency acceptor, then just push the spin button or pull the arm and everyone of them made a noise. The sound itself rivalled the thunder of the Falls
Blackjack - 78 tables, Roulette - 17 tables, Mini Full Size Baccarat (12 players) - 6 tables, Baccarat (9 players) - 2 tables, Mini Baccarat (7 players) - 2 tables, Caribbean Stud Poker - 6 tables, Big Six - 2 tables Pai Gow Poker (Chinese Poker) - 4 tables.
Slot tokens come in denominations of 5 cents, 25 cents, 50 cents, $1, $5, $20 and $100 most machines accept between one and three coins, and the size of the jackpot generally increases when more coins are played, pressing the "Bet Max" button places the maximum bet and starts the wheels spinning for maximum prize payouts
Having decided on our limit of £20.00 about $45.00 cdn so as not to spend all our holiday money we wandered around the floor watching people playing the slots or cards with the big burly dark suited played tossing large denomination chips in like they were pennies. It was amazing how some of these people seemed unconcerned with the money they were losing but then they do call that expression poker face.
Quite soon the noise and the smoke as smoking is allowed in a casino was giving me a headache and after a busy day we were all feeling tired and decided to take a slow wander back to our hotel.
SKYLON TOWER
Niagara's second most famous landmark is the Skylon Tower Soaring 775 feet above the Niagara Gorge overlooking both the Canadian and American Falls with the circular designed dome provides of three separate of unobstructed viewing platforms. Although not on par with the CN Tower although built of a similar design the tower is still fascinating. Ascending in one of the three outside mounted Yellow Bug elevators The Skylon is a wonderful place to get a view of the entire Falls with the special grey glass in the windows to diffuse sunlight and reduce glare. These windows allow for quality photographs to be taken from the inside and at night the views are astounding.
The indoor/outdoor Observatory, the highest vantage point in Niagara, and is located on the third floor of the Dome. On a clear day you can see close to 8,000 square miles of Canada and the United States, including the skylines of Toronto and Buffalo. Running alone the base of the windows of the observatory is a series of information plaques telling some of the fascinating history of the Falls and the Tower itself. A souvenir shop is located on the indoor section of the observatory.
Not only is the Skylon tower a tourist’s attraction it also is the home to a number of dining rooms and suites with award winning continental cuisine to suit many palettes and is presented in an elegant setting and a warm and inviting decor. The Skylon's world famous Revolving Dining Room is located on the first floor of the Dome. The dome revolves one every hour giving diners a magical view of the falls as they eat with a menu rivalled only by the view. The rich wood panelled Summit Suite Dining Room with elegant accents of brass and granite has a famous buffet with dishes like roast beef, fresh seafood or French pastries and can also be booked for special event private functions, receptions, banquets and business meetings from mid-October to mid-May. Each of the Dining rooms has their own kitchens located within the Dome to ensure efficient service to all the diners
The Lower Level & Skyquest contains an interactive indoor entertainment centre for family fun. A Quick Service Food Court, the Skylon 4D Theatre The 3D film combines special effects and motion for awesome realism, thrills and excitement. Also on this level, Administration offices, engineering departments, and rest rooms facilities
JOURNEY BENEATH THE FALLS
Another way to view the thundering waters of the Canadian Falls from a completely different angle is visiting The Journey Behind The Falls allowing a close-up view of the Falls from behind and below.
Descending on an elevator 150 feet I reached a 150-foot long tunnel entrance where I was given a transparent yellow polythene poncho. Once again this is an attraction where you can become extremely wet very fast. Before me was 650 feet of man made tunnels that lead to an observation plaza at the brink of the falls and two portals located directly behind the rock wall along which were information boards about the falls themselves. Following the tunnel to the end portal I stood by the barrier and looked out of the tunnel end into an agitated mass of water and spray. The noise was mind numbing in this little space echoing so loud I had to put my fingers in my ears. At this point I was about 150 feet within the rock of the falls running parallel with the cliff edge and looking behind the falling water. Moving to the barrier I tried to see through the falling waters but I due to the spray bouncing back from the basin. Moving back along the tunnel that was heavy with humidity and moisture I took a look at the second portal and found that was the same. This wasn’t looking so good I felt let down but I decided to try the observation plaza just above the river level at the brink of the falls. This was much better.
Divided into two segments, a covered upper deck and an open lower deck present a close-up view of the falls. Even under the covered decking I could feel the spray and water blowing against me but the view was spectacular. Over to my left the river, gorge and American falls and to my immediate right only feet away were the tumbling masses of the Canadian Falls. Deciding to take the plunge as it were I trotted down the steps to the open lower deck and boy was that a good choice. Thrilling and awesome can only describe watching the falls flowing over the rim only a matter of feet away and the sound was booming. I was closer to the water than I ever was in the Maid of the Mist and getting wetter and wetter but from that angle the sight was awe-inspiring. Although there isn’t really a lot here I did take some spectacular photographs and got a close-up view of the edge of the cataract.
THE SPANISH AEROCAR AND WHIRLPOOL
We had made our way from Niagara Falls heading North towards Niagara on the Lake and their wonderful vineyards and wineries when we pulled over to visit the Spanish Aero Car and the fascinating Whirlpool.
The Whirlpool was created approximately 6000 years when the erosion of the Niagara came upon a buried gorge that had been filled in with glacial silt and debris. It is a large circular pool of water located about 3-4 miles downstream of the Falls. Here the river makes a physical ninety-degree turn in its course. What happens here is the water flow pushes straight past the actual turn and enters the whirlpool during the daytime following the contour of the circular edge of the whirlpool and loops anti clockwise back to near where it entered the whirlpool before exiting north and flowing on to Lake Ontario. At night however when the Sir Adam Beck and Robert Moses Hydro Generating Stations begin to draw their water an unusual phenomenon occurs the currents in the Whirlpool reverse direction to clockwise. As a result of the reduced volume of water flow the water now enters the Whirlpool following the contour of the circular edge of Whirlpool rotating clockwise before exiting
Amongst a high bank of trees the Visitors Centre houses the viewing platform that runs along a small section of the cliff as well as the entrance to the Aero Car ride. From here I had a wonderful view of the river riding down swiftly into the gorge and into the vortex. The whirlpool is fascinating and so unbelievable that it has to be seen to be believed I could see the water turning with the vortex with their a deep aqua blue colour and swift running rapids and angry currents. Around the gorge, the cliffs are blanketed with trees adding to the whole view. But best way to see Niagara's fascinating Whirlpool is from high overhead aboard the world famous Niagara Whirlpool Aero Car.
The round trip is about 3,600 feet takes roughly 10 - 15 minutes riding suspended from six sturdy cables in a the delicate looking swinging basket-like car above of a 125 feet deep whirlpool, spanning the gorge approximately 1800 feet travelling between two different points of the Canadian shore of the Niagara River. From basket the breathtaking but dizzying views of the rapids with their foaming waters upstream, the spectacular Gorge, the hydroelectric plants down the river. Are in one word: Magnificent! There is a wind that is formed along the gorge and you can feel it whipping at your face and clothing. Birds soar effortlessly on thermal updrafts rising from the gorge all around while far below the torrent of water abruptly changes direction, creating a most mesmerizing natural phenomenon, almost frightening.
As well as information about the Aero Car and the surrounding area, the visitor centre houses numerous gift shops with their collection of souvenirs, sweets, drinks, snacks, sandwiches and the delicious Niagara fudge in an assortment of flavours that melts in your mouth. I love fudge but nothing compares to the fudge I tasted here.
This short ride is thrilling but not for those who have vertigo or a fear of heights in which case it can be extremely scary even though it travels at a steady pace and the car doe not rock a great deal. On the whole it’s an excellent experience. I just might come again.
AFTERWORD
Niagara has become a destination icon and holds something for each visitor, the charm of the area with its sports, amusements, attractions, museums and breathtaking scenery make for a wonderful holiday. I was fascinated with the geological history of the area and it’s the breathtaking views and I found wonder at the sights I beheld. I would definitely return again but in the mean time I will have to stick to watching the falls from the web cam.
Horseshoe Falls
Lip of the falls
American Falls
American Falls
Spanish Aerocar
Maid of the Mist
Typical Bloody Tourist
![[identity profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/identity/openid.png){kind=small}
no subject
Date: 2012-03-30 11:08 am (UTC)Such wonderful pics you took of them; and the narratives, as always, add so much.
Have a great weekend.
later!
no subject
Date: 2012-03-30 11:12 am (UTC)I have a large 4 foot panoramic picture of the Horseshoe falls on my living room falls so it reminds me of the amazing place
I hope my narratives interest people and I hope it help get over the sheer thrill and excitement I experience when out taking my pictures or on my adventures
no subject
Date: 2012-03-30 01:30 pm (UTC)I don't get to travel much, so I really enjoy seeing other people's pictures!
no subject
Date: 2012-03-30 01:33 pm (UTC)I will have to post more pics for you to take a look at I have hundreds that covered all my visits.
no subject
Date: 2012-03-30 01:45 pm (UTC)no subject
Date: 2012-03-30 01:36 pm (UTC)no subject
Date: 2012-03-30 01:46 pm (UTC)no subject
Date: 2012-03-30 01:52 pm (UTC)